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How to Explore Kerlingarfjöll & Hveradalir in Iceland
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You know those places that are stunning to the point you start wonder whether they are real? Well, that’s Kerlingarfjöll in a nutshell.
Nestled in the rugged Icelandic Highlands, it’s a surreal landscape where you get to witness both ice and fire. But that’s not all. With its steaming orange mountains and bubbling hot springs, Kerlingarfjöll is a true geothermal paradise and an amazing place for all hiking enthusiasts.
If you’re planning your trip to Kerlingarfjöll and its geothermal wonderland of Hveradalir, here’s what you need to know.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
How to Get to Kerlingarfjöll?
Kerlingarfjöll is a striking 1,477 meters (4,846 feet) tall mountain range, tucked away in the Central Icelandic Highlands, near the Kjölur highland road. It is a part of the impressive Hofsjökull volcanic system spanning over 100 square kilometres (39 square miles).
By Road
The distance from Reykjavík to Kerlingarfjöll is about 200 kilometres (124 miles) and the trip takes approximately 3-4 hours in summer.
To get to Kerlingarfjöll, start on Route 1 (Ring Road) and turn onto Route 35 (the Kjölur/Kjalvegur road) from Biskupstungnabraut. This rugged highland road, also known as F35, runs through the heart of Iceland, connecting Blönduós in the north to Gullfoss and the Golden Circle in the south.
After about 60 km (37 miles) on F35, turn onto F347 in Hrunamannahreppur and follow it to Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll. As you get closer, the terrain becomes more mountainous and bumpy, but still manageable to drive. Thankfully, you won’t encounter any rivers on neither F35 nor F347.
If you’re driving on the F35 from South Iceland, the distance from Gullfoss to Kerlingarfjoll is 70 km (43 miles) and the trip takes 1.5-2 hours. The distance from the North Iceland Ring Road (where F35 meets the Ring Road/ Route 1) is 120 km (74.5 miles) and the trip takes 2-3 hours.
Please note that driving time may vary depending on your vehicle, road condition, and your driving skills on unpaved roads. Also, since Icelandic weather changes swiftly, it’s always better to check ahead before setting out.
During summer, you can get there using an ordinary 2WD car (that’s what we used, but only because the roads were completely dry and the weather was good). We’d recommend you to take a 4WD as all F-roads generally require a four-wheel-drive vehicle. They are unpaved and rugged, and can sometimes include massive potholes or river crossings.
But thankfully F35 is less challenging. The road is wide enough to accommodate two cars for the most part and it’s not overly rocky.
Here’s the location of Kerlingarfjöll on Google Maps
By Tour
If you can’t drive to Kerlingarfjöll yourself, you can always take a guided tour. The options are very limited though, but we’ve still found two good ones for you:
- An economical option would be to take a tourist bus from Reykjavik to Kerlingarfjöll (costs 22,640 ISK/ 163 USD).
- An expensive yet exciting one would be to take the 4X4 super jeep tour from Akureyri to Kerlingarfjöll (costs 74,900 ISK/ 539 USD).
By Bus
A while ago, Gray Line used to offer a route from Reykjavik to Hveravellir, with a stop at Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort in summer months. Moreover, SBA Norðurleið also ran a daily bus through Reykjavik, Gullfoss, Kerlingarfjöll, Varmahlíð, and Akureyri from June to September.
Not sure if these routes are still offered, so please check well in time.
Lodging Near Kerlingarfjöll
You can stay at the newly renovated Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort, Highland Base. This resort is open throughout the year, and you can reach here with a tour when the F-roads are closed in winter.
The Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort offers various accommodation options (besides the opportunity to experience geothermal baths).
- Highland Base Hotel (includes deluxe rooms, standard rooms, and highland base suite)
- Highland Base Lodges (includes lodges, and lodges with sofa bed)
- Highland Base Huts (configured for private groups of 2-15 people and includes 2-people, 3-people, 6-people, 15-people Huts, and a Service house)
- Highland Base Campsite (you can pitch your tent or park your campervan at Highland Base’s riverside campsite. All campers have access to the Service House and you can always dine at the Base restaurant and purchase admission to Highland Baths)
As for Ola and I, we stayed two nights in a tent at the campsite. Finding a spot for your tent is on a first-come-first-served basis. The campsite facilities include toilets, showers, kitchen, and an outdoor grill area.
- Adults: 3,000 ISK (21.60 USD)
- Teenagers: (12-16): 2,000 ISK (14.40 USD)
- Children under 12: free of charge
- Overnight stay tax: 400 ISK (2.88 USD)
- Electricity (CEE): 2,000 ISK (14.40 USD)
You can make a booking through Parka.is and check for other details as well. But make sure to reserve in advance as slots may run out during the summer season.
Highland Base Restaurant is an 80-seat refuge of cozy warmth, savoury foods, and festive vibes. From coffee and waffles to bistro comfort food and alpine dining, they have something for everyone to enjoy.
The restaurant offers complimentary Breakfast Buffet for guests of the hotel and lodge. Other visitors can purchase breakfast on site for 3,900 ISK (28 USD) for adults and 1,950 ISK (14 USD) for children aged 5-12 years.
Children aged 4 years and younger eat free of charge. The Icelandic Waffle Buffet is priced at 2,490 ISK (18 USD) per person.
When to Visit Kerlingarfjöll?
The best time to visit Kerlingarfjöll is during summer from June to September – that’s when the conditions are ideal for exploring the Icelandic highlands. Moreover, this is also the time the F35 is open, as it closes around September, depending on the weather.
The temperature is mild, ranging from 10°C to 15°C (50℉-59℉); the mountains are bursting with colours; the valleys are lush and green; and the geothermal activity adds surreal beauty to the landscape.
We visited Kerlingarfjöll in the beginning of August and despite visiting during peak season, it wasn’t overcrowded with tourists (thankfully).
Winter visitors might face limited access due to snow and road closures but they can opt for super jeeps driven by professionals. Also, in winter time there is a higher chance to witness the Northern Lights.
Winter travellers can take part in snowshoeing and snowmobiling… besides bathing in the natural hot springs. Hiking can be quite complicated once the trails get covered with snow.
Like for any other place in Iceland, we strongly recommend to check the weather forecast on Vedur.is and look for possible road closures on Road.is before you plan to visit the area.
Photography in Kerlingarföll
Kerlingarfjöll has a variety of sites that are worth capturing. Its vibrant rhyolite mountains flaunt a stunning spectrum of colors that keep changing with the changes in the daylight. Moreover, steam clouds rising against glacier-capped peaks create a surreal contrast of fire and ice.
Winter travelers are rewarded with breathtaking views of northern lights.
Hveradalir Geothermal Area
Hveradalir is Kerlingarfjöll’s biggest tourist attraction. A breathtaking landscape of geysers, steam vents, and bubbling clay pits, it is Iceland’s third-largest geothermal area. If you only have time for one adventure in Kerlingarfjöll, let it be exploring Hveradalir!
You can get to Hveradalir from Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort in two ways; by a 15-minute drive or a moderately challenging hike (more on this later). For photographers, we’d definitely suggest the latter. This would be a unique and unforgettable experience for you.
The vivid rhyolite mountains, swirling steam, and bubbling hot springs create a surreal landscape unlike anything else… in not just Iceland, but outside of it as well. The colors are otherworldly… and the terrain seems right out of a sci-fi movie.
Gýgjarfoss Waterfall
The Gýgjarfoss waterfall is feeded by Jökulfall river, which emerges from the Hofsjökull glacier. It is located along the Kjölur Route (the F35 road) so can be visited on the way to Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort.
The waterfall is very easy to access, as it’s close to the roadside. Although it’s just 5 meters (16 ft.) in height and around 20 meters (67 ft.) in width, it has an impressive volume of water.
Ola and I took some beautiful pictures here.
Kerlingarfoss Sudurhraun Waterfall
Kerlingarfoss Sudurhraun waterfall is located on the south of Kerlingarfjoll. Fed by the Kerlingarfjoll glacier, this waterfall is much more sizable than Gýgjarfoss. It’s about 50 meters (164 ft.) high and 35 meters (114 ft.) wide.
The location is remote compared to Gýgjarfoss, but the sight is truly breathtaking. The pristine water amid the backdrop of rugged highlands is perfect for snaps, especially for those seeking unspoiled natural beauty.
Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring
Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring is a popular soaking spot for locals and visitors alike. Surrounded by reddish mountains and iron-rich soil, it’s approximately a 30-minute walk from the campsite upstream of the geothermal river.
After arriving at the hot spring, you’ll find a rock-walled pool alongside the river, which can host up to 10 visitors at once. The best thing is, you can visit it free of charge, unlike the hot pool at the hotel.
Like many remote Icelandic hot springs, the Kerlingarfjöll hot spring lacks changing rooms or any facilities. So, make sure to pack a swimsuit and towel.
Hiking Trails in Kerlingarfjöll
Kerlingarfjöll is, without a doubt, one of the best hiking destinations in Iceland (we liked it even more than Landamnnalaugar).
The trails here offer a remarkable mix of landscapes. They take you through geothermal spots, colorful mountains, and even small glaciers. For those willing to hike to higher altitudes, the reward is breathtaking panoramic views that make every step worth it.
Ola and I tried almost all the trails. I can talk about these trails for hours, but will keep it brief.
Hveradalir Geothermal Area
With its steaming solfataras, bubbling mud pools, and vibrant mountains, the geothermal wonderland of Hveradalir creates a surreal, sci-fi-like landscape.
Hveradalir will make you keep exploring it for at least a couple of hours. Thankfully, several trails wind through the area, offering both short and long hikes to suit different preferences. You can explore around 3-4 km of trails here.
Just don’t forget to bring your camera to picture this unforgettable experience.
Campsite to Hveradalir Hike
For those looking for a longer trek, you can hike from the Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll to Hveradalir instead of driving off-road. This makes for a scenic adventure… perfect for those who want to immerse themselves in the landscape on foot.
A round trip from Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort to Hveradalir takes around 5-6 hours, including the time to explore Hveradalir. The hike is moderately challenging and covers around 11-12 km (7 miles) in total. But as you can tell by now, this is an incredible experience.
Snækollur Peak
Snækollur is the highest peak in the area, with an elevation of 1,482 meters — almost thrice the height of Vestrahorn that we recently visited. It takes around 3 hours to complete.
You will encounter snow and ice around the summit, even in summertime, so it’s good to carry crampons or at least, microspikes. The hike is challenging but is truly rewarding!
Hverabotn Geothermal Area
Hverabotn is the second geothermal area in Kerlingarfjöll. It’s not as popular as Hveradalir and is, therefore, less crowded.
Located farther into the highlands, Hverabotn lies along the route to three summits: Ögmundur, Röðull, and Höttur. The hikes, here, range from moderate to difficult, so you need a decent fitness to move through the area.
Also, don’t go without GPS, as it might be challenging to navigate through due to cloud cover and low visibility.
Hverabotn is also the site of the highest surface temperature measured in Iceland; a whopping 150°C.
Ögmundur, Röðull and Höttur
Conquering these three formidable mountains isn’t easy — it’s a rigorous 16 km journey that may easily take up entire day. But, the reward is awe-inspiring panoramas of Kerlingarfjöll’s wilderness.
It is definitely a challenging hike and managing all 3 peaks in one day is quite difficult – we’d recommend you to divide it into at least two days if you want to hike all 3 summits. Good navigation skills and mountain movement are essential, as the route is at points completely off-trail and without any marks.
Ásgarðosfjall
Located close to the Kerlingarfjöll campsite, Ásgarðosfjall is an easy, straightforward hike that offers stunning views of the entire area. With its small summit, it’s more like a small hill than a towering mountain.
One of the highlights of this hike is the unique hyaloclastite formations, which add to the geological beauty of the landscape.
Mænir Peak Loop
The hike to the snow-capped summit of Mænir (visible from the Hveradalir geothermal area) takes about 7 hours and its moderately challenging.
It takes you through steaming geothermal fields, glacial ascents, and river crossings. The peak offers nice views on Hveradalir and all high summits in the area. It’s truly a hike you won’t ever forget!
Kerlingarfjöll Circuit
The Kerlingarfjöll Circuit, often termed as the Ring Route or the Kerlingarfjöll Peaks Hike, encircles all the highest peaks of Kerlingarfjöll. It’s a challenging hike around Kerlingarfjöll and takes about 2-3 days to complete.
We’d recommend this hike to only those who have good stamina and can push around 20km a day. Also, remember to carry winter hiking gear!
Important Travel Tips
- Arrive well-equipped, especially considering the unpredictable weather patterns Iceland is so famous (and so notorious) for. Carry vigorous footwear (crampons or microspikes if you plan hike higher in the mountains), warm and waterproof outerwear, swimsuit, gloves, and rain gear.
- Opt for a professional-driven 4×4 jeep if you are visiting during winter to drive through the snowy, glacial roads. If you’re driving on the F-roads yourself, use snow tires or chains, as they can get extremely slippery.
- You will definitely need GPS and a map for most areas/hikes as they are difficult to navigate through cloudy and foggy conditions.
- Buy snacks before visiting Kerlingarfjöll. If you plan to cook/grill on the campsite, remember to bring your own food supplies.
- Make sure you have a full tank of gas to see you through the entire length of F35 as there are no gas stations.
- If you are in photography, don’t forget to pack a camera. Every sight in Kerlingarfjöll is truly astonishing.
- It’s prohibited to drive off-road everywhere in Iceland and heavy fines are imposed on people who violate this law. Even a little damage can lead to erosion over larger areas, which can’t be reversed.
- To protect the delicate vegetation, it’s advised not to trespass.
Please make sure you’ve done all your research before you go, or consider booking a guided tour.
Interesting Facts
In 2013, Kerlingarfjöll was featured in the American reality survival show “Dude, You’re Screwed”, also known as “Survive That!” It was broadcasted on the Discovery Channel.
Rich Folklore & History
In Iceland, every mountain carries an interesting story behind its name and Kerlingarfjöll is no exception. According to legend, trolls live in the Highlands, travelling only by night so they don’t get turned to stone by sunlight.
So, Kerlingarfjöll, which translates to “Old Lady Mountain,” is named after a troll woman who wasn’t quick enough to escape the morning sunlight in time. As the first rays of dawn touched her, she turned to stone, forming the towering rock formation that stands today as Kerlingarfjöll.
Fascinating Geology
Kerlingarfjöll was formed 10,000 years ago due to a number of subglacial volcanic eruptions in the large Tuya Volcano System. This is a rare volcano that forms when lava erupts through ice/glaciers. Today, this fascinating geological mountain is renowned for its picturesque rusty-red rhyolite peaks and large geothermal area.
The colours here are so unique that you’ll never find them in Iceland, or anywhere else in the world. But what gives these mountains their vivid, otherworldly appearance? Well (besides the rhyolite rock), it’s mainly because of the geothermal activity which has infused the landscape with minerals, painting the rocks with various shades of green, red, and yellow!
As we hiked through these steaming valleys, we experienced another unique thing. The geothermal activity produces a lot of steam in the form of thick mist with a distinct “egg-like” smell.
This created an almost surreal atmosphere. At times, we felt as if we were disappearing into the steam, and were only able to see a few meters ahead.
Scenic Flora and Fauna
Despite all its harsh conditions, Kerlingarfjöll is rich in flora and fauna.
You find moisture-loving varieties of moss like R. Lanuginosum, lichen, and vascular plants in moist cirques. You also find sturdy Arctic flowers and dwarf shrubs (Moss Campion, Mountain Avens, to name a few), which add a splash of contrasting colours to the landscape. Moreover, you see specific Geothermal vegetation near hot streams and springs.
As for the wildlife, you get to see Arctic Fox and Ptarmigan. Ptarmigan is a bird whose feathers change from brown-patterned in the summer to pearly-white in winter. In addition to that, migrant birds make Kerlingarfjöll their home every summer.
Kerlingarfjöll vs. Landmannalaugar
Kerlingarfjöll is often compared with Landmannalaugar, which is considered the most popular hiking destination in Iceland. They both offer geothermal activity and excellent hiking trails, but have a few differences as well.
- When it comes to accommodations, Kerlingarfjöll has Highland Base Resort with an on-site restaurant. Landmannalaugar, however, has no luxury lodging options. The only option is a mountain hut operated by FI, an Icelandic Hiking Association, where you can choose to pitch a tent or book a bunk bed.
- Kerlingarfjöll has a higher elevation with comparatively difficult trails.
- The Kerlingarfjöll resort is located some distance away from the vibrant rhyolite mountains, so some hiking is required to access the interesting areas. Landmannalaugar, however, is more easily accessible in this regard.
- Kerlingarfjöll is less crowded than Landmannalaugar.
Final Words
Kerlingarfjöll is one of our favorite places in Iceland. The colorful landscapes and geothermal features have left a true impression on us and if the opportunity arises, we will for sure explore this cool spot once again.
If you are a nature lover, hiker, or just someone who wants to enjoy bathing in hot springs in a calm and relaxing environment, you must add Kerlingarfjöll to your bucket list.
In our experience, it was absolutely worth it!
Have you explored Kerlingarfjöll yet, or do you want to ask a question?
Leave us a comment! 😉
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FAQ
How far are Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir from Reykjavik by car?
Kerlingarfjöll is 3-4 hours from Reykjavik. The distance is around 200 km. Hveradalir is only a 15-minute drive from the Kerlingarfjöll campsite.
What is the most recommended transportation mode?
We’d recommend a 4WD unless it’s summer season with dry roads and a good weather forecast.
What to carry when visiting Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir?
Pack warm (preferably waterproof) clothing, hiking shoes, swimsuit, and if going for more advanced hikes, remember gps and crampons (or at least microspikes)!
What is the best time to visit Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir?
The best time to visit Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir is from June to September. Thankfully, it’s not too crowded even in the peak season.
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